Blenheim to Christchurch

While the hostel I was at was comfortable enough, it was very much a zoo during meal times. It was very strange to be sharing my morning with others, but it was to be expected as basically everyone was working. 

A bit after 8 I set off. A slight weight imbalance caused a little wobble but was soon forgotten. I had a few kms warming up on the flat before the first and biggest hill showed itself. 

I got up it no problem, especially with a bit of a tailwind. For the main highway north the road is amazingly narrow. They are currently doing works to straighten it or but seems well overdue. Generally everyone behaved themselves but one cat did take offence at me stopping them plowing into an oncoming truck though. 

Today was the first time this trip that I really missed my higher gears, as the tailwind meant I could push while at speed without to much diminishing returns. 

Unfortunately after a few climbs early on I stayed to feel really flat. Perhaps it was regret at passing the turnoff to Molesworth. I'd rate the few hours before lunch my worst of the trip, being basically the only time I didn't want to be on the bike at all. 

About 55km in I came across a sign to Pedalers Rest, a bit of a hostel catering to cyclists. Unfortunately it was really early in the day so even in my apathetic state I couldn't stop. 

A little while on I reached the coast. Things picked up a little, but it was only after lunch that I started to feel good. More stimulating scenery have me something to think about. 

About 15km from my planned stop for the day I came across a German couple cycling the opposite direction. They were towards the end of their 2 month trip. After suggesting the hostel I headed off.

I soon came to where I'd planned to stop. It looked very unappealing so I decided to push on to Kaikoura. Without the tailwind I workshy Jane managed it but luckily it was just strong enough to get my by. As I got closer to Kaikoura the road became much more scenic, as well as tighter. Definitely not ideal worth my fading energy.

I managed to survive, and once again opted for a hostel, this time minus the Zoo.

I've even met Susan, 2 days into a very rapid tour of the south island. It will be interesting to see how things go for her as she's planned every day, including one 160km ride from Arthurs Pass to Christchurch. She's definitely doing the trip very differently to me, carrying no camping or cooking equipment. 

Distance day 130km total 3130km

Ascent 950m total 34,850m

I took an extremely long time to get going this morning, and for no good reason. Eventually I headed off. I had 2 options, SH1 along the coast or a tougher inland route. I don't like main roads so I took the tough option. 

I was very happy to see mountains ahead. Today though they were very draining. Right from the start I was heading into a stiff headwind. The only respite I would get all day was the occasional cliff, but the wind was never far away. 

After my effort the previous day I could feel my legs on some of the climbs. Nothing too bad, just enough to get me to back off. 

The riding was generally up, but with a bunch of drops sown to rivers the riding was exhausting. 

Eventually I reached my destination, Mt Lyford lodge. I set up my tent and was in the process of removing the dead sand flies when one of the hooks that holds the inner up came off! 

I've managed to sew it back on, so hopefully it holds. I'll probably do some more work in it when I'm not so tired. 

The evening was spent chatting to an aussie couple on their honeymoon and a very frisky Czech barmaid. 

Distance day 61km total 3191km

Ascent day 1300m total 36,150m

I got my mojo back! The previous days had been a grind but I felt great, even with bit great weather and my first puncture. 

A nice quick packup was ruined by a very lazy time sitting on the couch watching cricket. 

30mins in I noticed my back tyre coitus use a pump. Once I was at a decent pressure I heard a hissing, which was coming from a decent gash in the tyre. No idea what caused it. I took my time repairing the tube and I used a bit of tape to block the small hole in the inside of the tyre. I'll replace that tyre when I can. 

I had a headwind for most of the ride, but unlike the previous day I only had to drop a few gears to make it comfortable. 

In Culverden I met a German cyclist on a mtb heading to Hanmer. He was 2 weeks from the end of his 6 week tour. I suggested the Rainbow Road, but his experience with broken spokes put him off. 

Uh oh. 

After lunch in the exact same place as a week earlier i headed off. The wind was almost straight from the side so I occasionally got some benefit. The temperature was doubt, and as I got to Waikari i felt the rain. I didn't have far to go so I had some last food before pushing on. 

I reached Waipara and found the backpackers. I didn't feel like setting the tent up in the rain and the price was all right. 

Before I'd settled in I saw Susan, the cyclist I'd met in Kaikoura. She'd had a much tougher day,doing the shorter easier coastal route but in one day, including a few hours of reason including some hail. We were heading different directions the next morning although we may meet on the west coast.

Distance  day 86km total 3277km

Ascent day 450m total 36,600m

I had a terrible sleep so as soon as i figured it was after 5 I got up. After saying goodbye to Susan I was off. 3 hours later I was in Christchurch. 

While not the least climbing I've done, it was the flattest day. The roads were busy, but wasn't so bad. 

A shower then lunch with Rob and Donna was very pleasant. My puncture the yesterday had highlighted a few cuts in the rear tyre. The front wasn't too bad but I decided the price was good enough so I switched both. 

I do hope they are as bombproof as they're made out as they wouldn't be fun to fix in bad weather! 

Rob took me on a roundabout trip to the bike shop to see how the city is going. I can't remember spending much time around in the past so I can't comment on the change, but people's comparison to a warzone is fairly accurate. 

Distance day 56km total 3323km

Ascent 100m total 36,700m

Arthurs Pass then the west coast next! 

Hanmer Springs to Blenheim

"How's the serenity?"

I don't think I could have survived another day in Hanmer so it was great to wake up to see two perfect days forcast. 

I had 100km of gravel over 2 days ahead, including NZ's highest mountain pass. It was going to be tough.

Right from the start the work began. 500m gain in 6km up to Jacks pass on gravel was definitely a tough warmup. While climbing I had to remember to stop and take a look around as it took so much concentration.

An hour later and a bit of walking and I still wasn't up! This wasn't too be the first time today that I wished for a few extra gears.

Once over the pass I had a short descent before entering the valley. After my earlier effort it was great to be able to pay less attention to staying upright and more on my surroundings.

After Jacks pass all the trees disappeared to be replaced by bare mountains on all sides.

While the road was still drivable with a normal car the size of the gravel was starting to make some sections a bit hairy.

After lunch at Lake Tennyson the valley started to narrow and the final climb of the day showed itself.

A bunch of motorbikes passed me and headed up the saddle. Soon after they passed I had a tumble. I was getting a bit tired was slowed just enough to lose balance. A bloody knee and a bruise were my only injuries. But this was before the main climb!

I started the climb. To begin with it wasn't so bad, very draining but firm enough to maintain traction. Very quickly the surface became really lose and I decided pushing the bike was safer. A few hundred metres and I'd had enough and the slope had lessened a little so I managed to ride the rest.

The hill I just climbed. That road is only 2km away. 

Once over I started the descent. Just as lose and rough as the climb I took it very cautiously. I was very glad to be down.

I passed the track to the first backcountry hut. The next one was less than an hour away and I still had plenty of light. Just around the corner a met Catherine, a kiwi cyclist. I was easily convinced to turn around.

To get to the hut I had to cross a ford. This was just slightly annoying as up to then I'd stayed dry.

This was my first, and likely last hut to stay in, but it was quite nice not to have to worry about a tent.

We talked about everything cycling camping before heading to bed.

Distance day 55km total 2848km
Ascent day 1200 total 33,250m

The next morning we had breakfast and parted ways. I probably had a slightly easier ride but it was still very tough.

My feet got wet straight away crossing back to the road, and they would be taking a regular soaking for basically the whole day.

I passed Sedgemere sleepout, the hut I'd originally planned to stay in. Straight after this I crossed the Wairau river and started one of the few decent climbs of the day.

Halfway up I felt myself stalling so I thought about unclipping, but I didn't so I had my second tumble. This time I doesn't do any damage, but I was very annoyed at myself.

After that I entered Rainbow station. The gate that they say is locked was wide own, probably because the owner had Just been through. I stopped at coldwater creek for a second breakfast before entering Hells Gate gorge.

Throughout the day the road varied from nicely graded to basically a bulldozed path through the rocks. Quite a few times I decided that acooting along with one for down was the best way of staying upright.

Since a bit before Hells Gate I'd started seeing some trees again. I was eventually rousing through the forest. This was also around where the last big climb started that is somehow missed on the elevation graphs. Nothing too bad but I did have to stop to catch my breath.

A little while later about halfway through the closed section met a couple of bikers taking the hard route to Invercargill. They mentioned that a ford a little further on had caused them a little problem, and Catherine had mentioned she'd camped overnight waiting for the water to drop.

When I got to our I decided to take it very cautiously so I took off my rear panniers and my handlebar bag. I was glad I did as the knee deep water was pushing hard at just my legs. 3 trips and I was over.

After a quick lunch by the river I pushed on. I eventually reached the Rainbow ski area road which marked the last unsealed section of the trip. My speed picked up a little but a headwind kept me going slow.

After a bunch more fords, some that I managed to ride I reached the highway! I tried messaging people to say I was out but the reception was terrible. I decided I didn't want to head into St Arnaud just retrace my steps the next day so I headed downhill to Kowhai Point campsite. I was feeling quite tired and hungry but I wanted to get a message out. Eventually I managed to wave down a car with a message to forward on.

I couldn't really enjoy my achievement as duetting dinner and up until I left the next morning I myself were on the menu for swarms of sand flies.

Distance day 72km total 2920km
Ascent day 600m total 34,050m

That night I was really warm. I'd had some warm nights but for most of this I was barely using the sleeping bag.

I got up and made breakfast whilst I was fed on. Once packed I headed off.

For the rest of the day I was traveling on a rather boring road to Blenheim. Pretty much dead straight the main excitement was when there were 2 corners in a row. Thankfully it was almost entirely downhill and I had a tailwind which accounted for my fastest moving average of the trip so far.

Once in Blenheim I called around trying to find a place to stay. I'd seen that hostels were about the same price as the campgrounds nearby, and eventually I found a bed.

Before I headed over I did a largish supermarket shop. On my way to the hostel I nearly got taken out.

I was turning right at a roundabout, and a 4wd to my left didn't see me. As I turned he came about as close as he could without hitting me. Some colourful language came out, and when he pulled over I was ready to give him a serve but straight away he was beer apologetic admitting he stuffed up. Still a little shaken up but feeling better I made my way to the hostel.

Distance day 80km total 3000km
Ascent day 87m total 34,100m

Originally I'd wanted to do the Molesworth track from here back to Hanmer, but with my days in Hanmer and people to see I've decided to take the coast road to Christchurch. Already I'm regreting it, but hopefully I'll find other opportunities to get off the beaten track.

Nelson to Hanmer Springs

After a rest day I often find it difficult to get into a rhythm and as such I struggle doing long distances. Today it wasn't that that made the day hard.

Young Zoe had gone from almost too shy to be in the same room to not letting me leave. I'd roughly thought 9am would work but it was closer to 10 before I left. 

I was straight into a headwind which would accompany me almost the whole distance. Luckily it wasn't my only company. 

Leaving Stoke I headed out along the main road. There was a bunch of cyclists that I was shadowing, possibly even gaining on, but then in the distance I saw a couple of reflective patches on a bike. A tourist! 

I started pushing a bit harder but luckily the rider stopped to refuel so I didn't have to burn any matches. 

Tim was a Brit doing an around the world trip. His original plan was to reach Murchison that day, 130km away, but with the wind it was very easy to convince him to make a detour to St Arnaud.

We headed off and took the quieter road. Usually this would mean a very pleasant ride, and generally it was. Unfortunately it seems people are happy to give a solo cyclist space, but add a second and it becomes too much for them to handle. 

My guess is we got abuse from a 10th of the cars that passed. Admitedly sometimes we were 2 abreast but with one car every 5 minutes we didn't feel the need to ride single file. 

The elevation graph for the day showed 2 kicks with a gradual increase in gradient before each one. The first of these kicks was the hardest with me out of the saddle for a decent distance. 

After that we lost a good amount of altitude and started the slow rise back. We barely noticed the second kick. Because of our late start and relaxed breaks we arrived in St Arnaud after 6. Later than my norm but not a worry. 

As we parked out the back of the backpackers we saw another bike, with just a rear rack. In the morning I met it's owner, Sofia from Mexico. 

While discussing our trip we discovered that myself and Tim had been following roughly the same route since leaving Auckland, having seen the Barcelona couple a day apart. From Wellington we were less than a day apart until Nelson. We'd have met up earlier, but we ended up catching the two different afternoon ferries.

Distance day 80km total 2417km

Ascent day 1250m 29,050m

We were all heading to Murchison so we rolled out in a Peleton of three. Sofia had done the same ride we had just the day earlier so we were all looking forward to using all the altitude we'd gained. 

Tim doesn't look that happy to pass the milestone

The day before Tim had passed the 8000km mark but was agonisingly close to 5000miles. I knew when he'd reach it so I sprinted ahead and stopped to capture the moment. 

The day was very good. We rarely pushed very hard but managed a nice average. We did get a few bad drivers, including one very horn happy truck. One thing that always amuses me is when cars wait behind because there's not great sight around a corner but seem to get bored and pass anyway even if it's worse when they pass. 

Towards midday the drizzles we'd had turned into rain. We were only only an hour away so I got on the front and put some power down. The others held my wheel and just as I was beginning to fade we got into town. 

My state of mind is great riding with these 2 is very good, my budget not so good with all the hostels. The Lazy Cow hostel was great tho and we were offered a beer because we were cyclists! 

A great evening followed chilling by the fire chatting with a couple of aussie fishermen. 

Distance day 60km total 2477km

Ascent day 200m total 30,150m

Tim had a tighter schedule so in the morning we parted ways. Luckily Sofia was heading to Hanmer Springs like me so I got to enjoy her company. 

I thought the day was going to be slightly tough but it turned out Google had hugely over estimated the elevation gain. The weather wasn't great  so we were happy to get into camp. After we were setup the day became perfect. In hindsight we should have pushed on and camped on the other side of Lewis Pass but we both thought it was too much for one day.

Throughout the day we had a good chat. Sofia had been in NZ a few months then decided she wanted to cycle it, alone. Very gutsy for a 19 yo. It's always interesting to hear other people's stories. 

This night would be Sofia's first night camping and was a decent test. 

Distance day 88km total 2565km

Ascent day 750m total 30,900m

It rained all night. I was fine but Sofia had some rain get through. I also had a visitor in the night so I'm down 4 slices of bread and I note have a hole in my tent. 

We stayed in my tent for a while waiting to see if the train would lessen. And it did, suddenly we could see all the mountains around. 

I packed up my tent but it started raining again. Eventually we had to decide to stay or go. We were stubborn and pushed on. 

Not long after starting we hear a short hissing sound. Had to happen today. Turned out to be a snapped valve. To make matters worse the bike shop Sofia bought the bike from had sold her a tube that wouldn't fit. Luckily I had the right size. We fixed it and headed off.  A few hundred metres along another hiss. I kicked myself for not properly diagnosing the problem. A rope was dangling near the wheel and caught the valve.

So with my second and last tube used we headed off. The climb up to Lewis Pass was much gentler than we expected, just the weather made it hard. Near the top we actually got some direct sun.

During the descent it got pretty bad. Both of us were freezing but I knew we had a long day ahead so I found some shelter, made us hot drinks and ate. The temperature was hovering just above freezing.

Eventually we pushed on, and a short time later we were saved. The rain passed and we had nice blue skies and warming sun, and to top it all of an amazing tailwind. 

Before this I was close to sticking my thumb out. The sun made the ride spectacular. Unfortunately we could see the next front approaching. It eventually passed so we got to enjoy the sun for the rest of the ride. 

Although it was dry I wasn't too unhappy staying in a hostel. 

Distance day 91km total  2656km

Ascent day 1200m total 32,100m

My next goal is to do the Rainbow Road, but I want good weather. This means I could be around till Sunday.

Thursday was spent doing a few errands and a few hours in the hot pools.

While traveling solo has its perks, the great thing about traveling with someone else is you can share some of the workload. This meant a massive pile of roast veggies and sausages for myself and Sofia.

A few games of cards followed, then I got to teach 500 to everyone else. Unfortunately the game ended when the bed beckoned.

The next morning Sofia headed off. I figured I'd be bored within the hour so I grabbed a few things and tagged along.

With mostly downhills and a slight tailwind we made great time, so 3 hours in and 67km from Hanmer we bid our farewells.

The worst thing you can do is to cycle with a tailwind on an out and back trip, but it was fairly light in the morning so I wasn't too worried. Unfortunately the wind really picked up towards midday. I was never worried as I had a long time to make it back.

A bit before Culverden I came across another tourist. He'd just done the Molesworth track. Sounded like he had it rough getting battered by the same weather we had over Lewis Pass.

In Culverden I had a quick lunch before joining a trio of cyclist heading to Hanmer. I had to push pretty hard to stay on but it was amazing the pace we could make in sometimes brutal headwinds. Luckily one of them had similar fitness to me so I was able to just hang on without blowing up.

At the turn off to Hanmer I continued on. With plenty of time and approaching my record for distance I felt like pushing it a bit. Luckily this time it was into the wind so when I turned around at the top of a hill 10km on it was an easy ride back to the turn off.

My legs were starting to feel the kms so it was great to reach the hostel. A bowl of ice cream served as my post ride recovery snack. It's been a while since I've felt this tired and it feels great!

Distance day 134km total 2790m

Ascent 800m total 32,900m

Picton to Nelson

So reviews of the holiday park I stayed mentioned trains 3 times a night. Either I slept through it or they counted night as up till 8am as I didn't hear any until after I was up.

My next port of call was Nelson to see Di and co. If i'd wanted to I could have done a big day and got there in one day but as Di was only getting back from aus the next day that would have been pointless so I had two easy days.

I headed along Queen Charlotte Drive for most of the ride. Basically every corner had a view I wanted to stop for.

I stopped for a whole to watch the Interislander come into Picton. The riding was great. A few gentle climbs and although the road was narrow in sections the speed limit was only 50 so it was never a problem.

This really is a road you have to ride. And I had a stunning day! Once I got to Havelock the riding got a little less enjoyable as I was back on the main highway.

Very early in the afternoon I reached Pelorus Bridge. This was my second serviced doc campsite and it was great. Much nicer than most other commercial parks.

There were some nice short walks around although some rain came through so I stayed in my tent mostly.

I did have a chat to the ranger about the Maungatapu track. I'd thought about doing it instead of going around closer to the coast. Apparently a mountain biker would find it tough. Even though it was only 35km to Nelson it could have easily taken all day as I'd have to walk long sections, quite possibly including the descent. I decided to give it a miss.

During dinner there was me with a big bowl of pasta, a girl tramping with a big bowl of rice and a couple with a cup of soup each...

Just before sunset I decided to go for a walk. Apparently  a 2 hours return. I managed to get to one end in only half an hour, but the light was fading fast. The track was quite well worn so even in the low light it was very easy to retrace my steps and I had my torch if I needed it.

I got back and headed to bed.

Distance day 54km total 2264km
Ascent day 500m total 27,100m

The day started out looking like rain.  But it wasn't very cold and I had a house to look forward to do I want worried.

I'm always amazed that pretty much every morning I'm the only one up before sunrise, and I often don't see many people til I'm leaving. Today was a bit different as I had a chat to a few people so left closer to 9am, I did only have a short day ahead.

Within the first hour the sun had managed to burn off all the cloud so it was a great ride.

People I'd chatted to had mentioned two big hills, and I'd seen the elevation graph for the day but I'd forgotten the specifics. Both climbs were fairly easy except for a decent stretch approaching the top of the first hill which had me out of the saddle for a while. I may have been able to grind a bit seated but I managed it alright maybe brushing the red zone occasionally.

Over the top of the first hill was the main time I needed to brake heavily to get around the corners otherwise both were just a nice flowy descent, perhaps a little slow though.

There was one final climb Gentle Annie, and it was very gentle as I barely noticed it.

From there it was a short descent down to the coast and an easy ride with a gentle tailwind making it very easy. I had noticed a cycle track off the road but decided to give it a miss as it was just the footpath with lots of driveways. A little bit later I did decide to give it a Terry when I'd gotten stock of the vibrations from the road. The track was quite nice to ride on except for a few road crossings

I had a quick look in town before heading towards Mark and Di's. I went on a cycle path again. The first section I wasn't very impressed with. They'd taken the "Copenhagen" style but stuffed it up by making the bikes give way at every intersection. A bit later it got off the road and that was great.

I was welcomed in the driveway by Di. Although I'd only stayed in Palmy less than a week before and I'd caught up with Alie and Matt a few days ago it's always great to see people you know.

I was a little tired but everyone was exhausted from their aus trip as delays had given them basically no sleep.

After a couple of errands including grabbing maps for the South Island we were back enjoying a few beers in the sun before having dinner.

Distance day 63km total 2337km
Ascent day 700m total 27,800m

I'd thought about heading off the next day but looking at the maps and where campsites were I couldn't have had the late start I wanted so I decided to take it easy.

The previous day Zoey had been really shy but it didn't take long before she was giving me hugs.

Besides a supermarket shop I wanted to head into a camping store to bit some water purification tablets. I hadn't had much need for them up to that point but over the next few weeks there's a few tracks I want to do that will have me away for towns did up to 4 days so I figured I should get some.

It turns out I picked the right store as the woman who helped me had actually cycled both the tracks I wanted to do. She had done them with her husband on loaded mountain bikes but other than be careful of weather she made no attempt to persuade me which is very reassuring.

Hopefully I'll be able to get going fairly early tomorrow, although with how late subset is nowadays I shouldn't have any problems even if I'm a bit lazy.

I actually want to give myself a big target one day soon just to see how I cope as really the desert road was the closest thing to a hard day in weeks besides bad weather.

Palmeston North to Picton

After my day off rest I struggled to get into a rhythm. Because of this I found the climb up the Pahiatua track a lot harder than I should have.

I ate my lunch packed by Debb in Pahiatua before heading towards Alfredton. I was following a cycle route which will eventually lead me to Wellington.

Unlike some of my past experiences this was a very pleasant ride through valleys of grass covered hills. I was generally climbing all the way to Alfredton but at a gentle grade which the trail wind naively negated.

I managed to reach Alfredton around 3pm, sat and watched some kids riding horses. Camping in the Alfredton Domain was free but it was much nicer than a lot of places I've paid for. Being the only one around helped.

Distance day 74km total 2014km
Ascent day 750m 23,400m

I was up early again. Sunrise was better than the previous days but ominous clouds ruined it a bit. Those same clouds also pushed me to head off early as my tent was almost completely dry and it felt like a bit of rain. I ended up heading off just on 7am.

I had 46km to travel to Masterton and I managed this easily in under 2.5 hours. A consistent climb and then a gradual descent with a tail wind helped a lot.

After morning tea I headed off towards Martinborough. Either I imagined the earlier trail wind or it switched middway because for the rest of the day I was working hard for any pace.

The terrain was mostly gentle undulations but the height still added up.

I once again managed to get into camp nice and early.

Distance day 95km total 2109km
Ascent day 500m 23,900m

In the evening and throughout the night there was fairly strong wind. Nothing to really make me worried but enough to make a lot of noise.

In the morning the wind still hadn't let up. My original plan was to head south of Martinborough and go around the lake to avoid the highways and a couple of narrow bridges. I started off but the cross wind was very strong. I decided I'd rather take the brunt of the wind for a shorter period so I turned back to the main road.

The going was tough and luckily fairly quiet as some gusts pushed me well towards the centre of the road. At one stage I got off and walked the bike a few hundred metres until the road was sheltered. After that the wind died off a little so I got to Featherston without too much trouble.

After a quick break I headed off towards the Rimutaka cycle trail. The cross winds were still fairly bad but at least they were now pushing me off the road.

I turned off onto a gravel road straight into a headwind. For a while I was still managing to ride, but quickly it got to the stage where I couldn't even hold the bike still.

I scrambled to a driveway which had a few trees next to it giving me good shelter from the wind. I had an early lunch and a long rest but the wind was still very bad. Eventually I continued on and soon reached the start of the Rimutaka incline.

I met a doc ranger who warned me some sections were quite exposed but I figured I'd continue on until it got too hard.

The first section had me thinking I was in for another mountain bike track, and I sort of was. The singletrack wasn't too bad although I messed up one climb so I now have a bit of a bruise on my hip.

After a little while I joined the incline proper. This track is along the path of the old railway track between Wellington and Featherston. For a train it climbs very rapidly at an average gradient of 1 in 15.

The going was tough but steady. The surface most of the way up was rough gravel but the gradient was low enough that traction wasn't much of a problem.

One section where the old track had completely washed away forced me to walk my bike down to a creek before crossing and struggling back up to the train line.

Along the way I passed through a bunch of tunnels. By the time I got my light out at the first one my night vision allowed me to continue without a light. I managed to get through all bar the longest without using my torch.

From the old summit village the going was fairly easy. All down hill and the surface was pretty good so I could keep a decent speed.

Doesn't look so bad does it? 

At one stage there was a ford and a footbridge. The ford liked pretty good so I went for it. It was a little deeper than I expected but I got to the other side before stalling.

Towards the end of the trail trail there was a gate, and disappointingly the part for people and bikes to get through was too small for even my unloaded bike to get through.

I must have missed the signs to continue along a bike path so I travelled along the highway for a bit. Winds were still making it a little annoying but I got back on the trail quickly.

The trail was good fun, winding through the trees along the Hutt River. Once again not entirely suited for a riding bike but riding was fairly easy except for a couple of steep sharp corners.

Not too shabby for free! And very close to Wellington. 

Eventually I reached Belmont Regional park, where I was able to camp for free. Turns out I could have reached Wellington easy, although as I found the next day finding a cheap bed would have been difficult.

Also apparently strong winds mess with my gps barometer. The elevation graph looks about right but the elevation gain just kept climbing when it shouldn't have. I guess that's one way to get the strava challenge!

Distance day 72km total 2181km
Ascent day 2000m total 25900m

I was meeting Alie and Matt for lunch in town. I originally thought I'd have plenty of time so I took it easy. When I actually had a better think I really didn't have much time at all, if I wanted to check in at a hostel beforehand.

Silky smooth! 

Almost straight away I was on a bike path. Started off gravel but then I had a very nice long section of extremely smooth tarmac. Even the joints had been smoothed so you couldn't feel them. I was enjoying this so much I actually passed my turn off!

I thought Wellington was going to be a great city to ride into. Nope.

After Petone the track went to shit. For a kilometre or so I went along the highway, but then the path became separate again. I kind of wish it didn't as the surfacing job was terrible. I've had unsealed roads that were smoother, and only bikes could use it so it can't be traffic degrading it.

I got into the city and went to get a bed at the only hostel close to the ferries. $82 was their cheapest bed! Alie pointed out that I could just get the afternoon ferry so I decided to do that.

I still had a little while before lunch so I had a go at reaching a bike shop. Google maps taking me along bus only roads killed a lot of time so eventually I just turned around.

Meeting up with Alie and Matt was great. Unfortunately it sounds like I came on a busy day so only had a little while.

Ended up being pretty good for me as by the time I did a quick shop and made my way to the ferry I really didn't have that much time to spare.

I had called to check what the go with my bike was. Ended up being really simple, just wheeling the bike onto the carriage deck and tieing it down while loaded.

The crossing was very smooth although outside the wind was very strong. Really nice views coming into Picton through the Queen Charlotte Sound.

I was about the last person on but probably one of the first off.

I went to the closest campsite and had a race with the rain to set my tent up, which I lost. Unfortunately the ground was rock hard so I bent a few pegs.

The train line is just above my tent so it will be interesting to see how that is during the night.

Distance day 29km total 2210km
Ascent 50m total 26,600m
*these totals are the weekly totals from strava added together rather than my daily rounding.

So the North Island done in 31 days, for an average of ~70km and ~850m ascent per day. The average was a little lower than I thought, but really I haven't pushed myself very hard since leaving Auckland.

Taupo to Palmeston North

All through today I was checking the weather forecast hoping for a good day for the desert crossing. A lot of what I was seeing didn't look good except for no warnings about the road.

From Taupo I got to enjoy a nice but busy lakeside ride, with one decent bump all the way to Turangi. Quite an easy ride, a lot of narrow roads but no real dramas. 

A few days before I'd planned to just stay somewhere in Turangi but as the ride was easy so I'd changed my mind and decided to put a dent in tomorrow's climb.

Only fine I could avidly see the top of the mountains. 

20km ands 300m of easy riding later I reached Kaiwanawa campsite. This was my first free campsite. Free generally means there's only a toilet and usually water from a stream. Unfortunately the campsite was a few kms from the stream. I'd fit in early so was no problem but it was very cold filling my water!

For a while I thought I'd be the only one in the campsite but just before sunset a French chick drove in. Through language difficulties I discovered she was doing the Tongariro crossing the next day.

It was getting dark so I called it a night.

Distance day 71km total 1720km
Ascent 650m total 20,050m

Up early once again I made breakfast and got ready. It was cold but looked like it wouldn't be to bad otherwise.

So I started the climb. Only a couple of sections were anywhere near what I'd call steep and with a few short descents it took over 30km to gain the 500m altitude. I kept thinking the next ride works have to be it but there was always something slightly higher.

Eventually I reached the summit mark. Didn't really feel like a summit though as the land all around was the same height and there was Mt Ruapehu in the clouds to the side.

While I was stopped taking photos and such the sun must have come out as the temperature went into double digits.  Soon after it dropped back down though.

I started the descent. I got a little bit of speed going to stay with but I was amazed at how long it was taking for me to lose altitude. A decent headwind didn't help but in general the elevation drops in steps.

After quite a while I reached Waiouru, the first civilization I'd seen since the day before.

It was cool but not to bad so I ate lunch outside. While I was there a two engine truck stopped for fuel. I'd have loved to see it go round some of the corners down to Taupo.

I set off again. Was once again a very gradual descent into Taihape. I decided to enjoy a nice warm coffee as the whole descent was very tiring with the cold and headwind. I was very tempted to stay in a hostel that night but it was still fairly early and a campsite in Mangaweka was only a little over an hour away mostly downhill with one short climb.

I made it fine and got setup and enjoyed a fairly early night.

Distance day 101km total 1821km
Ascent day 1150m total 21,200m

It rained that night and was still raining in the morning. Looking back I really should have just stayed another night but my stubbornness made me continue on.

I'd decided to do the Manawatu cycle route,  it meant adding an extra day to get to Parmeston North but it would keep me off highways almost entirely. What followed was an amazing road along cliffs and valleys but in terrible weather. I really want to come back and do this ride in good weather.

The average temperature for the whole ride was 3.4 degrees, with the first few hours hovering around 1 degree's. Without rain this wouldn't have been so bad but the combo made it very appalling.

I headed to Apiti hoping for a warm place to rest a little. Wasn't too be with the tavern and petrol station closed. So I found whatever shelter I could ands made a hot drink while I put on almost all the clothes I had. I spent a long time there.

Luckily the rain stopped so I continued on. It was only just over 20km. It also warmed up slightly but I still kept all my clothes on.

I finally reached the Piripiri campsite, another free doc site. The sun even came out a little! I'd managed to pack my tent up under shelter that morning so it was mostly dry. Was great to get into bed after a bad day.

Distance day 61km total 1882km
Ascent day 1100m total 22,300m

After the terrible day before it was great to wake up to a dry day. It had rained in the night so I had to pack my tent up wet but I had a nice comfy bed in Palmeston North to look forward to.

It was still cold but not too bad. I also had mostly descending to do. For most of the ride I had the Ruahine ranges towering over me which was great.

As I got closer the livestock farms turned into crops. It was nice to see slightly different farms.

Unfortunately the wind picked up so for most of the ride I was battling into a decent headwind. Even so I managed to rock up to Tony and Debb's place right at lunchtime.

It is very nice to stay in a house, although unlike when I got into Auckland the weather is great so being on the road wouldn't have been so bad.

A nice restful afternoon followed and a fairly early night.

Distance day 58km total 1940km
Ascent 350m total 22,650m

My first day not riding at all! After lunch in town we went for a tour of the surrounding landscape. It was very different passing through roads in a car!

Looks like good weather tomorrow so I'm off to Wellington, via a few cycle routes going south of lake Wairarapa.