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| "How's the serenity?" |
I had 100km of gravel over 2 days ahead, including NZ's highest mountain pass. It was going to be tough.
Right from the start the work began. 500m gain in 6km up to Jacks pass on gravel was definitely a tough warmup. While climbing I had to remember to stop and take a look around as it took so much concentration.
An hour later and a bit of walking and I still wasn't up! This wasn't too be the first time today that I wished for a few extra gears.
Once over the pass I had a short descent before entering the valley. After my earlier effort it was great to be able to pay less attention to staying upright and more on my surroundings.
After Jacks pass all the trees disappeared to be replaced by bare mountains on all sides.
While the road was still drivable with a normal car the size of the gravel was starting to make some sections a bit hairy.
After lunch at Lake Tennyson the valley started to narrow and the final climb of the day showed itself.
A bunch of motorbikes passed me and headed up the saddle. Soon after they passed I had a tumble. I was getting a bit tired was slowed just enough to lose balance. A bloody knee and a bruise were my only injuries. But this was before the main climb!
I started the climb. To begin with it wasn't so bad, very draining but firm enough to maintain traction. Very quickly the surface became really lose and I decided pushing the bike was safer. A few hundred metres and I'd had enough and the slope had lessened a little so I managed to ride the rest.
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| The hill I just climbed. That road is only 2km away. |
Once over I started the descent. Just as lose and rough as the climb I took it very cautiously. I was very glad to be down.
I passed the track to the first backcountry hut. The next one was less than an hour away and I still had plenty of light. Just around the corner a met Catherine, a kiwi cyclist. I was easily convinced to turn around.
To get to the hut I had to cross a ford. This was just slightly annoying as up to then I'd stayed dry.
This was my first, and likely last hut to stay in, but it was quite nice not to have to worry about a tent.
We talked about everything cycling camping before heading to bed.
Distance day 55km total 2848km
Ascent day 1200 total 33,250m
Ascent day 1200 total 33,250m
The next morning we had breakfast and parted ways. I probably had a slightly easier ride but it was still very tough.
My feet got wet straight away crossing back to the road, and they would be taking a regular soaking for basically the whole day.
I passed Sedgemere sleepout, the hut I'd originally planned to stay in. Straight after this I crossed the Wairau river and started one of the few decent climbs of the day.
Halfway up I felt myself stalling so I thought about unclipping, but I didn't so I had my second tumble. This time I doesn't do any damage, but I was very annoyed at myself.
After that I entered Rainbow station. The gate that they say is locked was wide own, probably because the owner had Just been through. I stopped at coldwater creek for a second breakfast before entering Hells Gate gorge.
Throughout the day the road varied from nicely graded to basically a bulldozed path through the rocks. Quite a few times I decided that acooting along with one for down was the best way of staying upright.
Since a bit before Hells Gate I'd started seeing some trees again. I was eventually rousing through the forest. This was also around where the last big climb started that is somehow missed on the elevation graphs. Nothing too bad but I did have to stop to catch my breath.
A little while later about halfway through the closed section met a couple of bikers taking the hard route to Invercargill. They mentioned that a ford a little further on had caused them a little problem, and Catherine had mentioned she'd camped overnight waiting for the water to drop.
When I got to our I decided to take it very cautiously so I took off my rear panniers and my handlebar bag. I was glad I did as the knee deep water was pushing hard at just my legs. 3 trips and I was over.
After a quick lunch by the river I pushed on. I eventually reached the Rainbow ski area road which marked the last unsealed section of the trip. My speed picked up a little but a headwind kept me going slow.
After a bunch more fords, some that I managed to ride I reached the highway! I tried messaging people to say I was out but the reception was terrible. I decided I didn't want to head into St Arnaud just retrace my steps the next day so I headed downhill to Kowhai Point campsite. I was feeling quite tired and hungry but I wanted to get a message out. Eventually I managed to wave down a car with a message to forward on.
I couldn't really enjoy my achievement as duetting dinner and up until I left the next morning I myself were on the menu for swarms of sand flies.
Distance day 72km total 2920km
Ascent day 600m total 34,050m
That night I was really warm. I'd had some warm nights but for most of this I was barely using the sleeping bag.
I got up and made breakfast whilst I was fed on. Once packed I headed off.
For the rest of the day I was traveling on a rather boring road to Blenheim. Pretty much dead straight the main excitement was when there were 2 corners in a row. Thankfully it was almost entirely downhill and I had a tailwind which accounted for my fastest moving average of the trip so far.
Once in Blenheim I called around trying to find a place to stay. I'd seen that hostels were about the same price as the campgrounds nearby, and eventually I found a bed.
Before I headed over I did a largish supermarket shop. On my way to the hostel I nearly got taken out.
I was turning right at a roundabout, and a 4wd to my left didn't see me. As I turned he came about as close as he could without hitting me. Some colourful language came out, and when he pulled over I was ready to give him a serve but straight away he was beer apologetic admitting he stuffed up. Still a little shaken up but feeling better I made my way to the hostel.
Distance day 80km total 3000km
Ascent day 87m total 34,100m
Originally I'd wanted to do the Molesworth track from here back to Hanmer, but with my days in Hanmer and people to see I've decided to take the coast road to Christchurch. Already I'm regreting it, but hopefully I'll find other opportunities to get off the beaten track.
Halfway up I felt myself stalling so I thought about unclipping, but I didn't so I had my second tumble. This time I doesn't do any damage, but I was very annoyed at myself.
After that I entered Rainbow station. The gate that they say is locked was wide own, probably because the owner had Just been through. I stopped at coldwater creek for a second breakfast before entering Hells Gate gorge.
Throughout the day the road varied from nicely graded to basically a bulldozed path through the rocks. Quite a few times I decided that acooting along with one for down was the best way of staying upright.
Since a bit before Hells Gate I'd started seeing some trees again. I was eventually rousing through the forest. This was also around where the last big climb started that is somehow missed on the elevation graphs. Nothing too bad but I did have to stop to catch my breath.
A little while later about halfway through the closed section met a couple of bikers taking the hard route to Invercargill. They mentioned that a ford a little further on had caused them a little problem, and Catherine had mentioned she'd camped overnight waiting for the water to drop.
When I got to our I decided to take it very cautiously so I took off my rear panniers and my handlebar bag. I was glad I did as the knee deep water was pushing hard at just my legs. 3 trips and I was over.
After a quick lunch by the river I pushed on. I eventually reached the Rainbow ski area road which marked the last unsealed section of the trip. My speed picked up a little but a headwind kept me going slow.
After a bunch more fords, some that I managed to ride I reached the highway! I tried messaging people to say I was out but the reception was terrible. I decided I didn't want to head into St Arnaud just retrace my steps the next day so I headed downhill to Kowhai Point campsite. I was feeling quite tired and hungry but I wanted to get a message out. Eventually I managed to wave down a car with a message to forward on.
I couldn't really enjoy my achievement as duetting dinner and up until I left the next morning I myself were on the menu for swarms of sand flies.
Distance day 72km total 2920km
Ascent day 600m total 34,050m
That night I was really warm. I'd had some warm nights but for most of this I was barely using the sleeping bag.
I got up and made breakfast whilst I was fed on. Once packed I headed off.
Once in Blenheim I called around trying to find a place to stay. I'd seen that hostels were about the same price as the campgrounds nearby, and eventually I found a bed.
Before I headed over I did a largish supermarket shop. On my way to the hostel I nearly got taken out.
I was turning right at a roundabout, and a 4wd to my left didn't see me. As I turned he came about as close as he could without hitting me. Some colourful language came out, and when he pulled over I was ready to give him a serve but straight away he was beer apologetic admitting he stuffed up. Still a little shaken up but feeling better I made my way to the hostel.
Distance day 80km total 3000km
Ascent day 87m total 34,100m
Originally I'd wanted to do the Molesworth track from here back to Hanmer, but with my days in Hanmer and people to see I've decided to take the coast road to Christchurch. Already I'm regreting it, but hopefully I'll find other opportunities to get off the beaten track.
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