Nelson to Golden Bay and heading home

When I was first in Nelson I chose not to go out to Golden Bay, figuring that the time would be better spent elsewhere. I was very happy to find out I had enough time.

I had a decent day ahead so I got myself ready and left just after 8. 

To start with I followed a bike path, but when it started to go all over the place I got back on the highway. And it was bloody busy. 

The riding early was quite easy, a few small hills but nothing much to worry about. 

I'd heard that there was a long narrow bridge with a shared path on the side. It was definitely a good idea to give bikes a safer place to go, but it would have been nice if they'd give some advanced warning...

On the other side of the bridge I met 2 tourers, one on a recumbent with a trailer. I'm actually slightly surprised this was the first recumbent I'd seen. 

I had one slight bump to get over before my work was done. This was Takaka hill at 791m. Whilst not the highest pass I've been over, it is still one of the greatest ascents as it begins at sea level. 

I was not overly worried figuring that people who had only driven it wouldn't really know too much, and I was correct. 

The start of the climb was fairly steep, but for the rest it remained in a comfortable range. 

Right from the start however my heart rate shot up due to a car starting to pull out whilst I was still in front. After that incident I forced myself to go very easy as I knew I'd blow up if I didn't get my heart rate under control. 

The climb was actually very pleasant with plenty of places with huge shoulders to allow cars to pass safely. I managed to do The entire climb non stop.

Up the top I stopped to take the obligatory photo. While having a snack a car pulled up and a guy got out and grabbed his bike! He even got picked up at the end of the main descent!

The descent was quite fun. I never got very fast but the many corners were great. Only near the bottom did a car pass.

Towards the bottom I had been noticing that the chain wasn't sitting properly on the cassette, skipping a lot. I tried on the fly adjustments but nothing changed. Fearing the worst I stopped and checked the cassette. It was wobbling! The freehub was stuffed again!

It wasn't as bad as last time, having caught it very early. I rolled into Takaka and luckily there was a bike shop with a very understanding mechanic. Eventually he confirmed that one bearing was stuffed.

With only 2 more possible riding days it was pointless to order and replace the freehub so instead he removed all the debris and got the bike at least rideable, maybe. And at no charge!

I was still feeling good so I continued on towards Collingwood. I could have made it, but my willpower wasn't enough to continue whilst my bike was sounding so terrible so I stopped and camped just out of town.

Distance day 100km total 6753km
Ascent day 1100m total 68,500m

Could my freehub survive the trip back to Nelson?

I was never too worried about being stranded and I even managed to find a few gears where the sound wasn't too terrible.

It's only a hill, get over it. 

The ride to the base of the hill was easy, although fairly hot. From my descent the day before I knew there was very little shade. This could have been an issue, except that the hill was providing shade whole I was climbing.

The climb was much harder than the other side requiring a fair bit of standing. It was never too much. Like the previous day I made it up non stop.

After a quick snack I started the descent, then started climbing again. Eventually the descent started. Another fun descent.

I'd decided I didn't feel like taking the highway near Richmond. Near Motueka I decided to start following the great taste trail.

This was fine for a bit, but a combination of bad signage, funny routes and bad of road trails had me looking for the highway.

I did give it more of a go and was not dissapointed. I got of the highway and headed to the ferry from Mapua. Luckily for me I only had to wait 20mins or so.

The ferry got me over to Rabbit island. From here on I was on trails the whole way back to Stoke.

The trail makers had done a great job. The very start was slightly sandy but it quickly firmed up. They even had a gate that toy could choose to go through normally or open it up fully.

It was good fun cruising along the trails.

So the bike did survive the trip, but it would be my last day of proper riding.

Distance day 108km total 6861km
Ascent day 1000m total 69,500m

I had thought about heading out for a day ride, and one option would have been the Maungatapu track over to Pelorus Bridge. This was a track I'd looked at when I first came to Nelson but was persuaded give it a miss. If my bike had been happy it would have been a good end to the trip, as well as bringing me within striking range of 7000km.

But I decided that I had been riding on borrowed time already so I have it a miss. Instead I chilled and sourced a bike box in Christchurch as well as finding a bike shop to borrow a pedal spanner.

In the morning I said my farewells and rode into town. Both buses were no problem.

In Picton I met 3 aussie tourers heading over to Wellington to fly home. Just a little further along was an American tourer.

The American had been doing huge distances every day. It sounded like he'd been basically riding whenever it was light. He'd managed to get from Auckland to Invercargill in 16 days! Along the way he'd missed a lot of great areas though.

In Christchurch I had only my second night going to bed after 12. It was great to have a few drinks and chat with the other travellers.

In the morning I headed off for my 2km walk to the bike shop. I grabbed the box and some packing material and headed back. With that done I chilled for a while and sorted lunch and dinner.

I got my bike ready to put in the box. When I went to put it in it was very snugg. This is a good thing as it means it shouldn't move around. Unfortunately I still needed to fit the wheels in. It was then that I found out that the box was both too narrow and too short!

Luckily it was only 3.30pm so I had enough time to go to a different store and get another box.

The walk back was a little tough as the wind had picked up, but the box was much stiffer so at least it didn't get damaged. It's even the right brand and allows the back wheel to remain in.

So now I'm sitting in the departure lounge after only a few hiccups getting checked in.

I had even been very considerate to the other people in my dorm by waking up 10mins before my 3.10am alarm.

Twizel to Nelson

So I was up at 6am this morning but went back and slept when I found the kitchen locked for another hour...

Eventually I was off. I started off following the O2A towards lake Pukaki. Upon reaching the lake I was greeted with my first view of Mt Cook. Throughout the day the view only got better.

I started along the road out to Mt Cook village. The riding was very easy. To start with there was very little wind but towards the end of the road the headwind picked up. I also met a swiss cyclist heading to Twizel.

I'd planned to stay out at the village, but when I arrived it was still very early and the promise of the strong tailwind had me thinking of a big day.

The wind was amazing. I was cruising above 40kmph down a slight slope. I was having fun till the wind switched. I quickly decided to stay the night in Glentanner.

Such a terrible spot to camp...

Distance day 91km total 6265km
Ascent day 750m total 65,700m

I was greeted in the morning by a wonderful view of mt cook, eventually the clouds covered it but it would clear again.

Today was fairly short. Lake Tekapo was the only feasible place unless I wanted to do a very long ride.

On the way back to the highway junction I met 2 separate cyclists. One of these mentioned I'd likely meet a lot of cyclists today and he wasn't wrong.

Just as I was approaching the Pukaki visitor centre another cyclist turned in. While we were chatting over an early lunch another cyclist turned up. After a while we went to leave and met 2 more!

Of course everyone was heading the other direction. I set off and a few minutes later 2 more approached.

Eventually though I was on my own, enjoying the great weather.

My route today was along the Tekapo canal. Whilst sometimes unsealed it was closed to public vehicles so it was very pleasant riding. The only hills the whole way were 2 steep roads at the start and end.

As I headed in to buy food I saw 3 cyclists that looked very much like tourers and they were. We had dinner together. They'd done a few of the same things as we, but they were still going the other direction.

Distance day 81km total 6346km
Ascent day 550m total 66,250m

It turned out I was camping at the same place as 3 other tourers, same story as all the others though.

I'd considered trying for a big day. To do it though the wind needed to be kind, and it wasn't.

Early on I had a short climb up to Burkes pass, doesn't really count though. The way down was fairly steep, but a very strong headwind slowed me dramatically.

I stopped in Fairly for a drink and a snack. I decided I wasn't up to doing a massive day, although I did decide I could take a significantly longer route which was meant to be more pleasant, and practically all down hill.

There was a light drizzle for most of the day but it was warm enough that I could just shrug it off while riding.

An hour or so out of Fairly I met a dutch couple cycling. It sounded like they'd cycled  NZ a few times already.

The detour I took had me going through Pleasant Point and I'm not sure if something was organised but there were quite a few recreational cyclists, but even they were going the opposite direction!

Made it to Geraldine and enjoyed 10000kj+ for dinner.

Distance day 114km total 6460km
Ascent day 300m total 66,550m

So from basically descending all day I went to climbing for half a day. Doesn't really count though when it's less than 1%.

I had a bunch of stops, never really feeling it. Eventually I did get some stimulation when I descended into the Rakaia gorge.

Of course a gorge generally means you have to go up again, and up I went. While it was fairly steep, the gradient was lower than I thought it was. It was still tough, but quite enjoyable.

From there I had a few more rolling hills before I rolled into Glentunnel.

Distance day 109km total 6569km
Ascent day 700m total 67,250m

For the lay few days I'd been heading away from all the good scenery, and today's ride promised to be gaudy boring.

I didn't even have any hills to add interest. I did however have a cross wind that would sometimes be slightly from behind our slightly from the front.

I met 2 cyclists before I reached Darfield. In town I met 2 cyclists from QLD. They were only over for 5-6 weeks, with plans to cycle a bit of the north island as well!

Once in town I started to look for accommodation. I really should have booked because all the backpackers were full! Eventually I settled for camping.

Before I did that though I went and organised my bus to and from Nelson.

Distance day 66km total 6635km
Ascent day 50m total 67,300m

So I really don't like setting an alarm. I had a terrible sleep because I was worried I'd over sleep and miss the bus.

I didn't and I was packed up with plenty of time so I ended up having a bit of a wander around the city. It was early morning but the centre looked like a ghost town.

The bus ride was very long but it was interesting seeing things from the other side. I'd much prefer being on the bike.

My connection was fine so I was in Nelson mid afternoon.

One day relaxing and prepping for the lay few days of my trip.

I'll be heading towards Farewell spit tomorrow, just going as fast as I can, hopefully ill be over the slight bump of Takaka tomorrow.

Dunedin to Twizel

My ride into Dunedin over Mt Cargill had been quite pleasant so I decided to do it again.

The ride was perhaps slightly tougher, but it still was worth the effort. 

On the way down I met 2 tourers, and throughout the day I'd meet 4 more. Quite odd for a pretty boring stretch of road.

I had been thinking about trying to get to Oamaru but the strong headwind changed my mind. Instead I stopped in Hampden.

Distance day 85km total 5911km

Ascent day 1000m total 62,400m

As soon as I could I got off SH1 and took the coast route to Oamaru. Along this road I met 2 American tourers. Whilst chatting another cyclist came from behind. Together we enjoyed the quiet scenic route. In Oamaru we parted ways.

After lunch I started on the Ocean 2 Alps trail. My destination was Duntroon. Whilst most of today was on various roads, I was really impressed by the trails that had been made. 

I'd been fighting a headwind most of the day so reaching the camp in Duntroon was a huge relief. 

Distance day 93km total 6004km

Ascent day 1050m total 63,450m

Another day, another headwind. It was Also above 30°.

Todays section of the trail was all on sealed roads except for the last 15km where they had made a cycle trail just off the highway.

The first 35km or so where on the highway. Whilst I'd done this section the week earlier, coming from the other direction gave me some variety.

At Aviemore I crossed the dam and continued on the other side of the lake. This road was quite pleasant to ride. I had one significant climb to get up and over Benmore dam, followed by a quick descent and easy ride into Otematata.

From Otematata I had an even bigger climb, but it was no problem. A while after the descent the off road trail started. And the trail makers struck again.

On my travels I've been on many trails with barriers to stop motorbikes from entering. Often they are well designed allowing for many different bikes.

This particular style seems designed to allow mountain bikes and other flat bar bikes only. One side allows for tall bikes to get their handlebars over, whilst the other side allows for shorter bikes to fit under.

Unfortunately my drop bars were too low to fit over the first option, and too high to fit under the second. To get through I had to take my handlebar bag off and lean the bike over to get the handlebars and seat under. I eventually for pretty good at this but I wish they'd rethink them.

Riding along the lake was quite pleasant. The section along the edge of the highway wasn't too bad either. Rolling into Omarama was very nice, especially as I'd finished my 2 drink bottles in a bit over an hour.

Distance day 91.1km total 6095kmkm
Ascent day 750m total 64,200m

Today ride between Omarama and Twizel was the best part of the trail. It had a good mix of challenging riding and great scenery.

A steady climb for 20km along mostly quiet roads brought me to the start of the trail. Early on I walked a creek crossing, but from that point on I was able to ride it all.

The trail started as a couple of tyre tracks in the grass. Slightly bumpy but easy enough. A few kms in and the track had been fully formed in the side of the hill. Some sections had quite smooth surface whilst others were extremely rocky. The gradient never got too high so I had no problem finding traction.

On the way up I met 2 aussie women on fully loaded folding bikes. They had done the whole trail up to that point including the helicopter flight across lake Pukaki.

From the top I had a very cautious descent. Some parts I felt confortable picking up speed but in general the surface was too loose and rocky.

From the bottom the trail followed the lakeshore, first on the road before more off road trails started. I had great fun flowing through the corners, although the loose gravel just off the worn line almost caused me to crash.

An easy ride along the Pukaki canal brought me to Twizel.

Distance day 79km total 6174km
Ascent day 700m total 64,900m

Dunedin to Dunedin

So after a week of very little cycling I eased myself back by doing a big climbing day with a headwind...

I left Dunedin far too late, meaning I couldn't do 3 mile hill. I did make up for it by nearly killing myself by taking a wrong turn up Saddle Hill.

Along the way I saw 3 other tourers, but they turned off to head somewhere else.

After morning tea with Oma and Opa I had a bit of flat before I was into some tough climbing in the heat and wind.

About halfway to Middlemarch a family offered food and water, something I rarely pass.

After my impromptu lunch I had a very quick descent, having to slow down for some very cautious cars.

The wind made the riding hard going, gusts made descending anything but relaxing.

Eventually I rolled into town, and found the campsite.

Middlemarch being the start of the rail trail there were a lot of cyclist, including 4 tourers! 2 aussie's and 2 Americans.

Distance day 86km total 5190km
Ascent day 1450m total 55,250m

I'd had a good chat to the Americans, so we headed off together.

I'd heard that the trail was quite rough in sections, but what I rode was pretty good. What did make it tough was a very strong headwind.

Occasionally we would have a little shelter, but in general we are hovering around 12kmph.

I've seen more cyclists along this 60km stretch than most of my trip combined. Pretty much all recreational, or short trip riders, but 2 round the world tourers stopped to say hi.

Eventually we reached Ranfurly. After a break I said my goodbyes and continued on to Naseby.

Reaching Naseby was a huge relief. Definitely not the easy ride the distance and elevation suggested. And I was hoping to save energy for a big effort tomorrow.

Distance day 74km total 5264km
Ascent day 600m total 55,850m

I battled the headwinds yesterday, so I should have a tailwind once I start heading south right? Well kinda right. Today was definitely a lot easier, but it wasn't all smooth sailing.

It was forcast to rain in the morning, and it did. At first it was just light rain, and as it was warm I just shrugged it off. The rain had stopped by the time I reached the highest point on the trail.

Part of the way down it started to rain again. As I was descending I decided I should stay dry, and I was glad I did as it bucketted down!

I saw very few cyclists compared to the previous days, I guess they were more sensible. A few hours later it was clear again.

I got to Lauder. My plan had always been to head off the trail from here and take the Thompson gorge road over to Tarras, a steep gravel pass. I decided against it though as I was fatigued and it would have meant another 50km straight into a 30kmph headwind. Instead I continued on the rail trail.

Although I wasn't going into a headwind, I did have a very strong crosswind in sections. This made the trail very difficult to ride.

In general the surface of the trail was easy for me to ride on, but only if I stayed in the tyre tracks. Several times the crosswind pushed me towards the edge and into loose gravel.

Eventually I made it to Clyde. Exhausted and well short of my plan but at least I could have a shower.

Today was also new years eve and my neighbours invited me over. If they hadn't I likely would have had an easier following day, but it was a great night. Right on midnight most of the camp converged on the rugby field and formed a huge circle. Amazing to see!

Today was probably the first time I've stayed up past midnight all trip.

Distance day 101km total 5365km
Ascent day 600m total 56,450m

I awoke mostly feeling alright. A lot later than normal though.

I planned to get passed Tarras and see how I was feeling and maybe push passed Lindis Pass. Another headwind put a stop to that idea.

The riding along lake Dunstan was very pleasant, but very tiring.

Just passed Tarras I met a Japanese cyclist. He was over here for just 8 days!

I had one last hill to climb, and I was over it before I even knew it. After the descent I met an Australian family cycling for a month. Definitely a good holiday.

I eventually got to the turnoff to my camp for the night. I still had 6km to go along the old Lindis road, a fairly rough ride.

When I arrived I just sat down for ages in shade completely drained.

Distance day 74km total 5449km
Ascent day 650m total 57,100m

So Lindis pass was just around the corner. I was looking forward to it, until I actually started.

The riding wasn't too hard, but the road was extremely busy. When convoys up to 20 cars long are passing you every few minutes it's very hard to enjoy.

Eventually I got to the top, to find the pass sign missing! Just a bit further on was the pass lookout. Quite a nice place to stop for a snack.

The descent was very pleasant. Fairly straight roads so I could just let myself go. Pay easy down I met another Japanese cyclist, although he was from Wellington.

Once the road flattened off, it also turned east so for the rest of the ride into Omarama I had a tailwind.

In Omarama I stopped for lunch. I noticed 2 bikes, the owners were 2 girls from Germany and Switzerland. They had planned to head over the Lindis Pass, but the traffic changed their mind. This meant they were heading the way I was going!

We headed off and got to enjoy a nice tailwind for an hour. Then the weather changed. It cooled of, but only because the wind changed to a headwind.

It was lucky there were 3 of us as taking turns pulling we so made decent time. Without them I would have stopped well before, but together we made it to Duntroon.

Distance day 144km total 5593km
Ascent day 1450m total 58,550m

The European girls had planned to head to Dunedin via Oamaru. I managed to talk them into heading over Danseys pass.

This ride was something I had planned to do even before I came over, and it didn't disappoint.

To start with we had a warmup climbing on sealed road. We had a small descent on gravel before a very short rapid descent on a sealed section.

I'd seen the elevation graph, so I thought that was the lay descent before the pass but I was well wrong. A quick 150m down and we were finally at the base of the climb.

The girls took the climb very slowly so I found I only struggled on a few sections. A couple of sections had my back wheel spinning but in general the surface was pretty good, at least for the speed I was going.

Up the top of the pass I checked my brakes, and noticed the spring had bent so it was driving against the disc. I didn't have the tools to bend it back, but I just replaced the whole lot.

The descent was a very relaxed affair for me. This was the first time the girls had climbed or descended on gravel so quite sensibly they took it slow. This did mean I spent a lot of time waiting, which allowed me to take plenty of photos.

We stopped for a drink at the coach inn. We got to enjoy a bit more descending before the road kicked up again. A few rolling hills followed before the final rapid descent into Naseby.

We said our goodbyes, and may end up being in Dunedin at the same time.

Distance day 66km total 5652km
Ascent day 1450m total 59,700m

Staying with family usually makes it hard to get on the road. Today was no exception, being after 12 before I got going.

Being so late I figured I would only go a short distance. It wasn't long before I changed my mind.

Whilst generally down hill, there was still a decent amount of climbing which was very hot work.

Dunback was less than 80km away, but with a tailwind and generally downhill I got there very quickly.

I stopped at the Dunback inn for water, and stayed chatting with the owner. They had quite cheap rooms, but I still had plenty of energy so I traveled the extra 30km to Waikouaiti.

Today was easily the shortest 100km ride, and all good riding.

Distance day 108km distance 5760km
Ascent day 900m total 60,600m

With just 50km away from Dunedin I could take it easy, but I didn't.

The inn owner had suggested getting off SH1 and following the coast road through Kiritane. This meant I avoided one big hill and replaced it by several smaller hills.

Eventually I had to get back on SH1, thankfully I was off and climbing Mt Cargill. This was one of the few climbs that was anywhere near consistent. This made it very relaxing to climb. The descent was good fun as well!

A quick ride through the city and I was done in time for lunch!

Distance day 48km total 5808km
Ascent day 700m total 61,300m

I now have 2.5 weeks before I fly out of Christchurch, but I only have ~1 week odd riding to get there.

I was thinking of some rides around Canterbury that I could do, before I realised I could catch a bus to Nelson and tick Takaka off my list.